The eternal beginner

A nice October day in Barrika last autumn

My learning of surfing is eternal. I surfed for the first time when I was 18 years old as I was spending three month in the spanish basque country for a training period. I remember feeling like in a washing machine when the waves came stronger than you would expect. At that time I was a student in Lyon, France, 8 hours drive away from the ocean. The same summer I took some lessons with another student who was earning a bit of money to do his surf trips giving surf lessons.... who actually is the father of our two daughters now!I didn't benefit much from the lessons because the same week I fell getting down a hill with a skateboard and injured my shoulder.
One year after, I managed to go continue my studies in Bordeaux, France, and took every opportunity to go to Lacanau with my fellow students who also surfed. I didn't have a car so I had to go whenever they went, but they would be already good surfers and would often go with too big conditions for my level, and I had some  really scary moment trying to sort out my way in the Lacanau shore breaks and currents... so I didn't get a lot better....
And so it went, my professional life started in the Alps, and I would go surf a bit during the holidays, but I wouldn't get a lot better from that.... Until I connected with the surf teacher again, and ended living with him and our two daughters in the basque country, 5 mn away from the beach. Now I surf a little bit oftener, but still being a mother of two 2 and 1 year old girls isn't the exact best plan to get better at surfing, also I have to say having a surf teacher at home is quite an enourmous help!!!

I'd love to meet more surfing mothers, surfmama101 (Check her blog eat surf love)for example is an inspiring person for me, or Nobuko who is an addicted japanese mom leaving in the basque country near us who surfs nearly every day.Nobuko's interview (in Spanish)

Cheers!